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ČESKÝ KRUMLOV (NEJEN) S DĚTMI

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Když jsme se téměř před 4 roky přestěhovali z Prahy do Českých Budějovic, tak jsme byli nadšení z toho, že se každý víkend můžeme vydat na nějaký výlet do nedalekého okolí a první léto jsme byli snad všude, kde se dalo. Teď už se jen vracíme na oblíbená místa nebo objevujeme ta nová, méně známá. Dnes bych se s vámi chtěla podělit o naše tipy, kde bydlet, kam vyrazit, co vidět a kde se najíst – v Českém Krumlově – a to všechno s dětmi.

Český Krumlov je nádherné město.

Středověké centrum Českého Krumlova je od roku 1992 zapsáno na seznamu světového dědictví UNESCO a opravdu stojí za návštěvu. Určitě se tu zastavte i v případě, že míříte jinam a kolem jen projíždíte. Uvidíte, že nebudete litovat, protože atmosféra tohoto města je kouzelná a to v jakoukoliv roční dobu. Já jsem tu poprvé byla déle než jeden den, když bylo Samíkovi 6 měsíců a to jsme si sem vyrazily s mamkou. Krumlov je sice plný dlažebních kostek, ale s kočárkem se dá projet úplně všude.

S kočárkem se nedostanete snad jen na zámeckou věž, jinak je vše přístupné.

Před týdnem jsme Krumlov navštívili v plné sestavě (Samík – 4 roky, Sára – 2 roky) a zůstali tam na dvě noci. Musím říct, že když má člověk čas a nejede sem jen na otočku, tak mnohem lépe nasaje atmosféru města. Plus s ohledem na situaci kolem koronaviru jsem Krumlov zažila poprvé bez davů turistů, což byla také příjemná změna. Nicméně Krumlov je na turismu závislý a tak teď kraj přišel se zajímavou pozvánkou: pokud v Krumlově strávíte 3-7 nocí, kraj uhradí třetinu ceny za osobu na noc a zároveň budete mít 50% slevu na vstupném do všech kulturních organizací spravovaných krajem (galerie, zoo, muzea) – bližší informace se dočtete zde.

Krumlov je plný malebných zákoutí.

My jsme se ubytovali v Residenci Muzeum vltavínů přímo v srdci Krumlova, takže jsme všechny turistické cíle měli v docházkové vzdálenosti (auto jsme nechali zaparkované na parkovišti P1). Od té doby, co máme děti, jsou nám apartmány bližší, protože v nich děti mají větší prostor pro blbnutí i odpočinek a mně vyhovuje zázemí s kuchyňkou. Konkrétně v této residenci mají pokoje v moderním i historickém stylu – my jsme si vybrali podkrovní apartmán, jehož původní trámy, cihlová podlaha a výhled na hrad umocnili tu správnou atmosféru historického Krumlova. Jediné, co mi vždy v apartmánech chybí jsou hotelové snídaně, ale tady je možné zaplatit si snídani přímo do vašeho pokoje. Náš pokoj byl sice ve 3. patře, ale kočárek jsme si nechávali v kamerově hlídaném vchodu u muzea, který se na noc zavírá.

Na ty snídaně bych si zvykla.
Výhled k nezaplacení.

Přímo v budově residence se nachází Muzeum vltavínů, do kterého můžete jít i s dětmi, výstava je totiž pojatá interaktivně, takže se nudit nebudou. Sárinku zaujalo promítání filmu („první kino“) a Samíka zase hmatová poznávačka, kterou když s dětmi správně vyplníte na lísteček, dostanou pohlednici a balonek.

Muzeum vltavínů.

Muzeí a galerií je v Krumlově spousta, my jsme se zaměřili pouze na ty, které by mohly bavit i děti, takže jsme navštívili Muzeum voskových figurín jehož součástí je i Zrcadlový labyrint (určitě si kupte kombinovanou vstupenku, se kterou ušetříte). Mně se líbilo, že je muzeum zaměřeno na osobnosti a region Jižních Čech, Samík zase ocenil ukázku středověkého městečka včetně světelných a zvukových efektů.

Muzeum voskových figurín.
Figuríny byly nejen historické, ale také z nedávné minulosti i ty soudobé.
Zrcadlový labyrint.
Když jsme se vymotali ze zrcadlového labyrintu, dostali jsme se do síně smíchu s prohnutými zrcadly, které různě deformují postavu a opravdu hodně jsme se tam nasmáli.

Moc hezké je i 3D Muzeum, kde najdete obrazy vytvořené pomocí 3D efektu, u nichž se můžete vyfotit a vytvářet tak různé optické iluze. V jednom takovém muzeu jsme bylo loni ve Františkových lázních, kde měli i ilustrační návod, jak si fotku udělat a odkud fotit, což mi tady trošku chybělo, ale i tak jsme udělali pár povedených záběrů. Moc mě mrzelo, že v době naší návštěvy byl zavřený Grafitový důl a Interaktivní expozice lidských dovedností v klášteře, ale my se do Krumlova během léta ještě určitě vrátíme.

3D muzeum očima kluků.
3D muzeum očima holek.

Nejoblíbenějším místem našich dětí se jednoznačně stal hradní příkop, kde mají svůj příbytek krumlovští medvědi, jejichž chov je tu tradicí již přes 400 let. Hrad jsem bohužel zevnitř ještě něviděla (na to jsou naše děti ještě moc malé), ale pokud máte větší děti, určitě mrkněte i na různé zvýhodněné vstupenky, které město nabízí. Pokud máte děti malé jako my, učitě se s nimi vydejte na procházku do zámecké zahrady, která je nádherná a děti se v ní vyběhají.

U medvědů jsme byli několikrát denně.
A pokaždé jsme měli štěstí, že tam byli.
Cestou do zámecké zahrady určitě nevynechte mnohá vyhlídková místa.

Naším novým objevem jsou Kláštery, kde jsme s dětmi navštívili interaktivní expozici lidských dovedností, ze které jsme byli všichni nadšení. Dozvěděli jsme se, jak v dávných dobách žila šlechta i prostý lid, co bylo nezbytnou součástí domácností, jak se tiskly knihy, uchovávaly potraviny, nebo v čem se míchaly lektvary. Děti si tu můžou na vše sáhnout, ke všemu můžete přivonět a mnoho věcí si vyzkoušet (výroba čaje, pečetě, koupelové soli, psaní brkem…) a navíc tu najdete hernu plnou krásných tradičních hraček. 

Na výstavě jsem nefotila, ale natáčela, tak přikládám krátký video sestřih.

Krumlov je nádherný na procházky kolem vody: naše děti milují zdravit vodáky, krmit kachny a házet kamínky do vody, takže si to maximálně užívali. A když jsme u té vody, tak loni v létě jsme si tady Vltavu sjeli: Sárinku tehdy hlídala tchýně a pluli jsme na raftu já, Míla, Samík a tchán. V půjčovně jsme si tehdy půjčili raft a zvolili trasu Č. Krumlov-Zlatá koruna (cca 2 h. plavby) – platili jsme 400 Kč/osoba a v ceně byl i voděodolný vak na věci a vesty (na této trase je voda max. po ramena). Pohled na Krumlov z raftu je zase úplně jiný a plavba krásnou přírodou je velkým zážitkem pro děti i dospělé. My jsme 2krát zastavovali na tekutou svačinu (na jedné zastávce bylo i pískoviště pro děti) a poté, co jsme dorazili do cíle, zavolali jsme do půjčovny a oni pro nás přijeli a dovezli nás zase k autu. Nikdo z nás žádné zkušenosti s raftováním neměl, ale i tak jme to zvládli, takže za nás určitě doporučuju.

No není to nádhera?
Na raftu se Samíkovi moc líbilo.

Co se týče kavárniček a restaurací, které jsme navštívili, tak určitě můžu doporučit kouzelné místo Pivovarská zahrada, kde se často pořádají koncerty a různé kulturní akce. Venku si můžete posedět u kávy nebo sklenky vína a děti si mezitím vyhrají na pískovišti, houpačkách a trampolíně.

Tady bychom se zasekli klidně na celé odpoledne.

Stylové je Cafe Synagoga se zahradní terasou, kde je i pískoviště a houpačky pro děti – navíc tu mají výbornou kávu a famózní dezerty.

Café Synagoga má jedinečnou atmosféru.

Na oběd doporučuji restauraci Vrátnice, která je ale mimo historické centrum (nutný přesun autem) – moc dobře tam vaří a pro děti mají na terásce hezký domeček s hračkami a houpačku.

Který rodič neuvítá zázemí pro děti, že?

Další možností, jak se najíst a zabavit děti je Cafe Retro, jehož letní terasa stojí přímo na dětském hřišti, které je rozdělené na dvě části pro menší a větší děti.

My jmse si vzali kávu z nedalekého stánku s italsou zmrzlinou.

A nemůžu nezmínit ani MLS Creperii, kde mají neksutečný výběr palačinek a waflí, které připravují přímo před vašima očima a jsou obrovské (klidně si dejte jednu pro 2 osoby). Když pršelo, došel nám Míla pro večeři do italské restaurace Nonna Gina a musím říct, že tak dobrou pizzu už jsem dlouho neměla. S mamkou se nám tehdy moc líbilo v Cafe štrúdl, kde jsou zaměření výhradně na výrobu a prodej štrúdlu, teď jsme tam ale nestihli zavítat. Napíšu vám sem ještě další gastro místa, která jste mi doporučovali na IG, ale my jsme do nich nestihli zajít: Ideal coffee, Omnes caffe Arleta, Papa’s living restaurant, Hospoda Na louži, Hostinec Depo, cukrárna Krumlovksá vanilka, řízková restaurace Pivoňka, espresso bar Masná 130.

Lentilková palačinka.

Jak jsem psala již výše, Krumlov je krásný v každém ročním období: s mamkou jsme tam byly v listopadu a zámecká zahrada plná barevného listí byla nádherná, v zimě jsou tam okouzlující adventní trhy a v létě doporučuji návštěvu v době Slavností pětilisté růže (letos bohužel zrušeno), kdy se celé město vrátí do doby panování Rožmberků (historické průvody, ve kterých účinkuje přes 700 osob, historické trhy na zámku, dobové hry pro děti, tanec, historický šerm, kejklíři a žongléři a fakíři…).

Já s tehdy půl ročním Samíkem.
Před porodem Sárinky na Slavnostech pětilisté růže.

Krumlov je také skvělým výchozím bodem pro výlety do okolí. Za nás mohu pro rodiny s dětmi doporučit tato místa (na některá můžete kliknout a dostanete se na článek): Dívčí kámen (zřícenina hradu: 9 km), Hluboká (ZOO, venkovní sportovní areál: 27 km), České Budějovice (koupaliště, funpark Panda: 20 km), Frymburk (bazén a podmořský svět: 20 km), Kleť (rozhledna: 6 km), Lipno (Stezka korunami stromů, Království lesa, Hopsárium, bazén, bobová dráha: 20 km).

Já doufám, že jsem vás navnadila k návštěvě Českého Krumlova a pokud pro mě máte nějaký tip, který jsem tu nesdílela, určitě se o něj se mnou podělte v komentářích.

Krásný den.

L.

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